"Alf Randell is a self-described "dirtbag" who has spent nearly a decade of his life climbing amongst the soaring sandstone cliffs of Indian Creek, Utah. In November, 2011, I spent some time climbing with Alf and documented his life in "The Creek," his love of tall splitter cracks, and his decision to shun city life in favor of a small camper in the middle of the Utah desert." -Austin Siadak
Jonny Corndawg: Stray Dawg
"Meet Jonny Corndawg, the underground country-music legend. A born-and-bred Virginian, Jonny has played on five continents in as many years, and every state in the lower 48. Now Jonny has given himself over, heart and heel, to the world of Running.
Like most country musicians, Jonny spends more time on the road than on terra firma, more on stage than off, but with all that, Jonny is gaining a name for waking up daily, before and after every show, and burning ten miles while bandmates sleep off their evenings. Imagine Hank Williams Jr. from the belt up, Steve Prefontaine from the waistband down, throw in a gallon of water and a knack for showmanship, and what do you get? One of the great American vitalists, Jonny Corndawg.
Jonny let us follow him on a tour down the California coast as he braved injury and isolation on his quest to complete the Surf City USA Marathon in Huntington Beach, CA." -Sean Dunne
Rest days (RRG): During my constant struggle to stay occupied in Miquel's dimly lit basement, I was fortunate to run into an equally anxious crew from Burlington, Vermont. Ben related with my extreme interest in climbing films and urged me to watch "The Wizard's Apprentice", a digital download of Ondra's latest. Rather than ranting about Ondra's try hard tactics and trying to justify/defend his war cries, I simply encourage everyone to check this thing out for yourself. The film includes interviews from Ondra, family, coaches, and fellow elite climbers. Watching Ondra climb is impressive, but hearing the story behind it all really puts things in perspective.
With a full days rest in me and an adequate "try-hard" lesson under my belt, I managed to complete Spank (5.13a) second go. This marks the first route of the grade that hasn't taken an excess of 20+ tries to complete. Training and progression is finally starting to make its mark. The remainder of the trip consisted of mileage and heart-breaker finishing moves.
Rest day activities:
Excessive Ondra footage
Six-topping pizzas from Miquel's (Chicken, avocado, chorizo/bacon, pineapple, onion, tomato)
An undefeated chess record against many University of Richmond business students
Hobo style coffee: French press Starbuck's (Cafe Verona), stolen sugar packets from local gas stations (stashed in glove compartment), creamer: non-refrigerated chocolate almond milk. Ale 8 double fist combo for increased caffination and chaser for HSC (hobo style coffee).
Thinking of ways I could be more productive (showering, email, ect.), but instead, continuing to watch Jonathan Siegrist make the RRG look like a P wall at Peak Experiences.
In spirit of "The Wizard's Apprentice" turning out to be pretty legit, I posted over an hour of Ondra footage below. Also, I strategically posted "calm" videos towards the top and "louder" footage below. So, if screaming isn't your thing, stick to the first five. At least turn your volume down to avoid frustration and blowing out a speaker or eardrum. Enjoy.
What Happens When You Actually Give a **** (Adam Ondra)
"This is currently the hardest route in the region. It climbs the consistently angled wall on the small buttress right of the main amphitheatre. A pumping 5.13b section leads up to a decent shake before the business. Some v-hard bouldering involving a dyno or a difficult static move using a horrible sloper takes you to a big gaston, a razor crimp and the anchors. This route was orginally equipped by Porter Jarrard but the first ascent feel to Joel Brady in 1999 at the grade of 5.13d. While working on the second ascent of the route, Matt Bosley broke a hold and felt obligated to 'reopen' it. He succeeded on Memorial Day, 2006. The grade is speculation as Matt didn't suggest one. With only one repeat time will tell but it certainly lies in the 14a/b range." 50 ft. 8 bolts. bolt anchor. Joel Brady 1999, Matt Bosley 2006
-NRG Guide Book (Mikey Williams)
THE COLISEUM
"The Coliseum could not be more appropriately named. This extremely overhanging wall is a bustling battleground of combat. Shirtless, muscle-bound gladiators wait in line to test their skills against their chosen adversary. The boulders at the base seem custom built to house the slew of cheering onlookers, mostly bi-kini-clad vixens, intent on singling out the strongest young lad with the most perfectly timed "power blat". The routes are steep and classic. Apollo Reed is undoubtedly the most popular 5.13 in the region and stands as the entrance exam to the harder routes in the amphitheatre such as Mercy Seat, B.C, and Pod. The regions hardest route, Still Life, gazes out from the far corner eagerly awaiting its next victim but few step up to the challenge. Most hardmen would rather shoot for climbing the Triple Crown: Apollo, Mercy, and Pod, in a day. It's these select few who usually hike back to the car with the prettiest girl."
Andrew Palmer, post-send pump, Still Life (5.14b). Sick work my man! (Photo: Aaron McCrady)
Thomas Neyer onStill Life Stephen Meinholdgently grabbing holds so they don't break (right image)
After a long fall/winter season of bouldering, I'm slowly but surely becoming reacclimated to climbing routes again. I'm stoked to see to that bouldering has paid off in that individual moves feel much easier. However, I could use some work on movement/climbing pace, fluidity, and committing to dynamic moves on rope.
After lowering from my short-term proj (The POD, 5.13b), Chris Sharma was next in line, hopping on The Full Metal Brisket project, projected to be within the 5.14+ range. (Right) Sharma, casually cruising through the pod move.
Attempting to cool down on Apollo Reed (5.13a)
Stephen Meinhold making easy work of Mercy Seat (5.13a) and Sharma testing
out B.C. (5.13c)?
The POD (5.13b) Summersville Lake, NRG
With mid-April's less than ideal weather/temps (for bouldering), I managed to make two last try efforts on SLS (Grayson Highlands State Park), a boulder that had stumped me on previous trips and was swiftly creeping into send potential range. The first was a solo mission to GHSP in the early AM, providing me with many beta tweeks and a sense of optimism.
Shane Messer, Triangle Rock Club's head route setter and youth team coach, managed to stand on top of the boulder several years ago. Despite occasional efforts by Adam Walker, Aaron Parlier, Justin Miller, and myself, southwest VA has been unable to match Raleigh's strong man (although capable). The problem remains unrepeated. From my understanding, the name SLS, aka Some Litz Shit (shh..don't tell anyone!) assumes that James Litz previously walked this line years ago while visiting GHSP (a break from crushing in the Obed, TN). A race for a second ascent sounded pretty silly knowing that a likely previous ascentionist (Litz) cruised the thing, and was either too humble or just didn't care enough to take part in the "I was first" game.
Still, SLS remained close to home (2 hr range) and represented a next level of Virginia bouldering. In hopes that a night sess would provide the appropriate conditions, Justin and I hiked into GHSP with Redbull in hand and went to work..
.jpg)
