Sunday, May 29, 2011

A Return to Sport Climbing, 2011 New River Rendezvous, and Some Old Fashioned SLS

After a long fall/winter season of bouldering, I'm slowly but surely becoming reacclimated to climbing routes again. I'm stoked to see to that bouldering has paid off in that individual moves feel much easier.  However, I could use some work on movement/climbing pace, fluidity, and committing to dynamic moves on rope.

After lowering from my short-term proj (The POD, 5.13b), Chris Sharma was next in line, hopping on The Full Metal Brisket project, projected to be within the 5.14+ range.  (Right) Sharma, casually cruising through the pod move.  

Attempting to cool down on Apollo Reed (5.13a)
Stephen Meinhold making easy work of Mercy Seat (5.13a) and Sharma testing
out B.C. (5.13c)?
The POD (5.13b) Summersville Lake, NRG

With mid-April's less than ideal weather/temps (for bouldering), I managed to make two last try efforts on SLS (Grayson Highlands State Park), a boulder that had stumped me on previous trips and was swiftly creeping into send potential range.  The first was a solo mission to GHSP in the early AM, providing me with many beta tweeks and a sense of optimism.

Shane Messer, Triangle Rock Club's head route setter and youth team coach, managed to stand on top of the boulder several years ago.  Despite occasional efforts by Adam Walker, Aaron Parlier, Justin Miller, and myself, southwest VA has been unable to match Raleigh's strong man (although capable).  The problem remains unrepeated.  From my understanding, the name SLS, aka Some Litz Shit (shh..don't tell anyone!) assumes that James Litz previously walked this line years ago while visiting GHSP (a break from crushing in the Obed, TN).  A race for a second ascent sounded pretty silly knowing that a likely previous ascentionist (Litz) cruised the thing, and was either too humble or just didn't care enough to take part in the "I was first" game.

Still, SLS remained close to home (2 hr range) and represented a next level of Virginia bouldering.  In hopes that a night sess would provide the appropriate conditions, Justin and I hiked into GHSP with Redbull in hand and went to work.. 

Thursday, May 19, 2011

BRMS Boulder Bash 2011

Matt Londrey killing it on the semifinals route.

Epically close to sticking the final crux and finishing above the majority of the field!

Kati Peters truly reppin the 804 and looking stronger than ever. Keep a look out for this girl, shes about to take the comp scene by storm..psyched to see the progression become full-circle.  Kris and Dave with the spot.

                              Dead Point, On Point

   1. Zach Lerner
   2. Paul Robinson
   3. Daniel Woods
   4. Ryan Banister
   5. Alex Johnson
   6. Matt Londrey

  1. Sasha Digiulian
  2. Angie Payne
  3. Leanna Lockhart
  4. Charlotte Bosley
  5. Kati Peters
  6. Courtney Sanders

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Dominion River Rock Bouldering Competition 2011 (Pre-comp)

Holly McMullen forerunning for the comp, Friday morning.

Brent Quesenberry, head route setter and youth climbing coach at Peak Experiences, looking small under his next-level creation.

Andrew Palmer crushing on Brent's creation.

Nate doin work.

Nate Draughn forerunning.

Sunday, May 1, 2011

M-Knob, Southwest VA

Left finger dish on Dave's Line
Roadside, Spring 2010

Mickey Mouse boulders (aka The Guardian Angel according to the 
elderly townie women of Salem, VA).

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Two From Roadside