Monday, December 24, 2012

Acclimation: Southeast Power Endurance

Salo's Roof (Pep Boys) Soddy Daisy, Tn

Justin captured a post rain climbing experience at The Mill. The clip illustrates three distinct climbing styles and the importance of staying true to the sequence that works best for you. Anything but ideal conditions. Online read 100 % humidity and the cave had condensed. The wall was dark with moisture and the dampened white of the few remaining chalk marks no longer formed the contrast we all look for in a majestic boulder problem. Climbing almost seemed conterproductive and the temptation of a rest day poked at us. Boar's hair brushes were useless and instead seemed to just spread the peanut buttery, toothpaste chalk. We busted out some old wool socks we had sitting in our bags, caked em in chalk, and ran through each sequence a couple times with our hands. It worked! Ultimately, we overcame conditions and a climbing day was saved! Justin managed to send his first v9 along with capturing the footage below. Don't always let conditions dictate your climbing day.

Honey Child v10/v11 starts by climbing Honey comb, a powerful core-intensive v10. At the jug rail, the route exits right, completing Red Headed Stepchild v8 (rather than taking the more moderate v4 exit of Honeycomb). Days after initially completing Honeycomb, a short clip of Matt Ballard on Honeychild appeared on my news feed. Having both individual climbs dialed and a good natural baseline of power endurance, i knew this would be a good fitness link-up to try. After sending Honeychild, I later discovered on 8a that Tim Hink had previously done the link with an even lower sit start variation (Crazer Craver, aka Honeycomb sit, into the RHSC exit). He named the link Bee Line. Since then a jug flake on Crazy Craver has broken, preventing the round about and forcing a more direct line into Honey comb. Next Season!?

Blacksmith V9, Power endurance on crimps! Combines a V6ish link into Cyclops, an awkward powerful, facey V6 crimp line. Although individual moves aren't too bad, the Cyclops crux relies on power reserve (a deadpoint accuracy stab and initiation on a 1/3 pad crimp). I relied almost solely on heel-toe cams to keep crucial weight off my fingers. Moving quickly/efficiently and having beta dialed is also helpful. (moderately friction dependent) 

The Orb V8 Rocktown, GA (Photo by Wes Walker)

Nine Lives (V9) Lookout Mountain (15 mins from the house!)

Brent Perkins on Dune Blaster V8/9, Dayton Pocket

Dune Blaster. This particular climb feels like a 90 degree gym roof..that was littered by a new setter...with way more holds than you'd ever need for a standard route. Not necessarily a bad thing. Although it doesn't force movement the way other boulders might, the nature of the overly featured rock allows for some interesting options. Ultimately, your able to create and tweak a sequence that caters to your own strengths rather than having to mimick others. I'd consider the last right hand bump move to be both the crux and redpoint crux. This section involves fighting a moderate pump, but more importantly requires a tight core while pulling onto the headwall. When your ass consistently sags during this last move, its easy to find yourself wishing you'd done a few more front levers the week before.  Without a doubt, a power endurance climb

Josh Livasy cruxin The Big Empty

Mikey D milking the first mini rest of the Big E.

Roommates gettin it done on "Shiver Me Timbers Direct", powerful try-hard V8. 
Photos: Paulina Pena

I Think I can V9, Little Rock City (Crimp ladder eliminant)

Robbing the Tooth Fairy is characterized by sloping directional holds. It relies heavily on the security of left heel hooks and the push of key right foot smears. Bearing down is important, but without the appropriate foot placements, single moves can feel nearly impossible.  Failing to stay focused on each individual move is a no-go.  ADD will spit you off this climb. Delicate but powerful! 

Bedwetters V9, LRC

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