tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90676335059288051332024-03-13T04:21:25.196-07:00Andy CutlerClimbing BlogAndy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-46061404674146635452014-01-11T09:30:00.002-08:002014-02-03T07:24:34.671-08:00RVA Meets Catalunya<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Salo's Roof (Pep Boys) Soddy Daisy, Tn<br />
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Justin captured a post rain climbing experience at The Mill. The clip illustrates three distinct climbing styles and the importance of staying true to the sequence that works best for you. Anything but ideal conditions. Online read 100 % humidity and the cave had condensed. The wall was dark with moisture and the dampened white of the few remaining chalk marks no longer formed the contrast we all look for in a majestic boulder problem. Climbing almost seemed conterproductive and the temptation of a rest day poked at us. Boar's hair brushes were useless and instead seemed to just spread the peanut buttery, toothpaste chalk. We busted out some old wool socks we had sitting in our bags, caked em in chalk, and ran through each sequence a couple times with our hands. It worked! Ultimately, we overcame conditions and a climbing day was saved! Justin managed to send his first v9 along with capturing the footage below. Don't always let conditions dictate your climbing day. <br />
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Honey Child v10/v11 starts by climbing Honey comb, a powerful core-intensive v10. At the jug rail, the route exits right, completing Red Headed Stepchild v8 (rather than taking the more moderate v4 exit of Honeycomb). Days after initially completing Honeycomb, a short clip of Matt Ballard on Honeychild appeared on my news feed. Having both individual climbs dialed and a good natural baseline of power endurance, i knew this would be a good fitness link-up to try. After sending Honeychild, I later discovered on 8a that Tim Hink had previously done the link with an even lower sit start variation (Crazer Craver, aka Honeycomb sit, into the RHSC exit). He named the link Bee Line. Since then a jug flake on Crazy Craver has broken, preventing the round about and forcing a more direct line into Honey comb. Next Season!?</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Blacksmith V9, Power endurance on crimps! Combines a V6ish link into Cyclops, an awkward powerful, facey V6 crimp line. Although individual moves aren't too bad, the Cyclops crux relies on power reserve (a deadpoint accuracy stab and initiation on a 1/3 pad crimp). I relied almost solely on heel-toe cams to keep crucial weight off my fingers. Moving quickly/efficiently and having beta dialed is also helpful. (moderately friction dependent) </span><br />
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The Orb V8 Rocktown, GA (Photo by Wes Walker)</div>
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Nine Lives (V9) Lookout Mountain (15 mins from the house!)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption">Brent Perkins on Dune Blaster V8/9, Dayton Pocket<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Dune Blaster. This particular climb feels like a 90 degree gym roof..that was littered by a new setter...with way more holds than you'd ever need for a standard route. Not necessarily a bad thing. Although it doesn't force movement the way other boulders might, the nature of the overly featured rock allows for some interesting options. Ultimately, your able to create and tweak a sequence that caters to your own strengths rather than having to mimick others. I'd consider the last right hand bump move to be both the crux and redpoint crux. This section involves fighting a moderate pump, but more importantly requires a tight core while pulling onto the headwall. When your ass consistently sags during this last move, its easy to find yourself wishing you'd done a few more front levers the week before. Without a doubt, a power endurance climb</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Josh Livasy cruxin The Big Empty</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mikey D milking the first mini rest of the Big E.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Roommates gettin it done on "Shiver Me Timbers Direct", powerful try-hard V8. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Robbing the Tooth Fairy is characterized by sloping directional holds. It relies heavily on the security of left heel hooks and the push of key right foot smears. Bearing down is important, but without the appropriate foot placements, single moves can feel nearly impossible. Failing to stay focused on each individual move is a no-go. ADD will spit you off this climb. Delicate but powerful! </span></span></div>
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Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-69752929716684258892012-07-21T19:35:00.000-07:002013-09-20T14:24:12.286-07:00Coliseum Triple Crown<span style="background-color: white;"></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deep Throat (13c)</td></tr>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;">Aside from training for Dominion River
Rock, I climbed during this past spring with two particular goals in mind. The
first and more attainable goal pertained to achieving a level of consistency
within a somewhat foreign and unfamiliar difficulty rating. During an early
April day trip, I managed my first double 13a day, climbing both Mercy Seat and
Blood Raid. Ironically, the random workless Tuesday provided the
necessary sense of epicness and urgency to hit 3 crags and send. The
birthday send of Snooker (13a) came shortly after during a weekend trip to
Kentucky. The second goal focused less on consistency/mileage and instead
emphasized difficulty. Although I was unable to achieve 13c this spring,
I put a few solid efforts into Deep Throat (Nar Cave, Summersville) and One for
the Gipper (Brilliant Pebble, Southside Meadow). The goal was short
lived. I took a step back in order to avoid the further frustration associated
with low percentage moves and low friction holds.</span></div>
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When the average climber hears the term "triple crown", they typically can't help but envision one particular scenario...Its early to late fall. The van doors open and a sea of crashpad shelled human turtles swarm the bouldering field. The three-location event targets the most stacked boulder fields that the Southeast has to offer: Houndears (Boone), NC, Stone Fort (LRC), TN, and HP40, AL. Its a great time of year. "TRIPLE CROWNNN!" However, I'm not writing this post in regards to Kurt Smith's infamous war-cry. Outdoor bouldering is at the bottom of my list of things to do at the New River Gorge in the middle of July's baking heat.<br />
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With a Richmond crew very much psyched on Summersville, I made it a workout goal to complete the Triple Crown (Apollo, Pod, and Mercy Seat) within a day. Regardless of my previous ascents, the coliseum proved to be an excellent training ground..physical climbing, steep terrain, shade, and sustained power endurance (qualities that cater well to my strengths and skill sets). I truly respect the persistence, dedication, and commitment required to complete a long term project; However, there is something to be said about a climber's ability to consistently repeat and reproduce ascents that fall just below an individual's difficulty threshold. Ideally, sending should not be about the luck of the draw. Consistency and precision should replace low probability. Like Dylan Barks and his dispatch of the entire Madness Cave in a day. Climbing 14a is super impressive. But climbing 13d, two 13c's, a 13a, and two more 14a's in a day is no fluke (in July!). Instead, it represents a true testament of fitness, climbing ability, and all day stamina.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Max Caudle, Apollo Reed (Summersville Lake)</td></tr>
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"The Coliseum could not be more appropriately named. This extremely overhanging wall is a bustling battleground of combat. Shirtless, muscle-bound gladiators wait in line to test their skills against their chosen adversary. The boulders at the base seem custom built to house the slew of cheering onlookers, mostly bi-kini-clad vixens, intent on singling out the strongest young lad with the most perfectly timed "power blat". The routes are steep and classic. Apollo Reed is undoubtedly the most popular 5.13 in the region and stands as the entrance exam to the harder routes in the amphitheatre such as Mercy Seat, B.C, and Pod. The regions hardest route, Still Life, gazes out from the far corner eagerly awaiting its next victim but few step up to the challenge. Most hardmen would rather shoot for climbing the Triple Crown: Apollo, Mercy, and Pod, in a day. It's these select few who usually hike back to the car with the prettiest girl." -Mikey's excerpt from the NRG guide book.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dean and myself on Suicide Blonde and Deep Throat (Nar Cave). Nothing better than manufactured cruxes and aged nylon perma-draws..</span>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-85311619501767609082012-07-12T12:15:00.000-07:002013-09-20T14:18:26.082-07:00The Eye of Odin (8c+) Dani, Magnus, and EthanSo typically, I try to stear clear from posting random videos that are unrelated to my own climbing or the local crew (with the exception of the training and psych page). I'll leave that task to DPM and CNarc..Couldn't resist with the one. The <a href="http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-does-his-thing-norway">story</a> behind this thing is pretty unreal. Props to Ethan for the film, edit, and music selection...oh yea, and the FA. Ondra swooped in with the onsight a few days later.<br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/45194834">The Eye of Odin (8c+) first ascent</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user505483">Ethan Pringle</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-56566121116286876092012-06-01T08:50:00.002-07:002012-06-01T12:14:10.615-07:00When Idols Become Rivals (The stout field of DRR)<div style="text-align: left;">
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Forerunners and Routesetters:</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nate Draughn and Rami Annab</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dave Wetmore and Shane Messer (Routesetters)</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: yellow;">Josh Larson</span>, Lexington (MA), Age 26</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: yellow;">Matt Bosley</span>, Parkville (MD), Age 33</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: yellow;">Ryan Banister</span>, Timonium (MD), Age 26</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GjvNfIxO8Rw/T7xdn2Rfj8I/AAAAAAAAANM/Y8oSV2oJaY0/s1600/407205_10150434417686237_1297453082_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GjvNfIxO8Rw/T7xdn2Rfj8I/AAAAAAAAANM/Y8oSV2oJaY0/s400/407205_10150434417686237_1297453082_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Devin Doyle </span>, Raleigh (NC), Age 22</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Alex Johnson</span>, Denver (CO), Age 20</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Ian Chavis</span>, Richmond (VA), Age 25</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Peter Grill</span>, Boone (NC), Age 20</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: yellow;">Austin Boze</span>, Richmond (VA), Age 19</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Tim Rose</span>, Elliotsburg (PA), Age 27</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Andy Cutler</span>, Richmond (VA) Age 23</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Daniel Woods</span>, Boulder (CO), Age 22</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Jimmy Webb</span>, Chattanooga (TN), 24</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Paul Robinson</span>, Moorestown (NJ), Age 24</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Andrew Palmer</span>, Midlothian (VA), Age 24</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Michael O'Rourke</span>, Boulder (CO), Age 17</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Matt Londrey</span>, Richmond (VA), Age 21</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F9uGpEIcNog/T7xhK_EZOII/AAAAAAAAAN0/YKOVFOcuTw0/s1600/299966_10150779109115595_1271709_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="278" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F9uGpEIcNog/T7xhK_EZOII/AAAAAAAAAN0/YKOVFOcuTw0/s400/299966_10150779109115595_1271709_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: yellow;">Taylor McNeil</span>, Cary (NC), Age 21</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: yellow;">Vasya Vorotnikov</span>, Newark (DE), Age 25</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f6XT573iG-w/T7xjwqhAPBI/AAAAAAAAAOc/6wkxKMzw_vI/s1600/132771_743823225337_20601316_40390401_5400728_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f6XT573iG-w/T7xjwqhAPBI/AAAAAAAAAOc/6wkxKMzw_vI/s400/132771_743823225337_20601316_40390401_5400728_o.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: yellow;">Carlo Traversi</span>, Boulder (CO), Age 23</span></td></tr>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42736146" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-76328408122191271812012-05-21T19:05:00.002-07:002012-05-22T10:05:04.502-07:00Dominion River Rock 2012 Boulder Qualifiers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42568347" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe><br />Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-70653195511819607902012-04-19T10:44:00.000-07:002013-09-20T14:16:59.121-07:00Professional Dirtbaggers<span style="color: yellow;">Alf Randell: A Desert Life</span><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/34482694?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">"Alf Randell is a self-described "dirtbag" who has spent nearly a decade of his life climbing amongst the soaring sandstone cliffs of Indian Creek, Utah. In November, 2011, I spent some time climbing with Alf and documented his life in "The Creek," his love of tall splitter cracks, and his decision to shun city life in favor of a small camper in the middle of the Utah desert."</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Austin Siadak</span><br />
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<span style="color: yellow;">Jonny Corndawg: Stray Dawg</span><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/22875944?autoplay=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">"Meet Jonny Corndawg, the underground country-music legend. A born-and-bred Virginian, Jonny has played on five continents in as many years, and every state in the lower 48. Now Jonny has given himself over, heart and heel, to the world of Running. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Like most country musicians, Jonny spends more time on the road than on terra firma, more on stage than off, but with all that, Jonny is gaining a name for waking up daily, before and after every show, and burning ten miles while bandmates sleep off their evenings. Imagine Hank Williams Jr. from the belt up, Steve Prefontaine from the waistband down, throw in a gallon of water and a knack for showmanship, and what do you get? One of the great American vitalists, Jonny Corndawg.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jonny let us follow him on a tour down the California coast as he braved injury and isolation on his quest to complete the Surf City USA Marathon in Huntington Beach, CA."</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Sean Dunne</span><br />
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</span> <span style="color: yellow;">Thirty Five</span><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/62716181?color=999999" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe><br />Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-52789549711809986452012-03-29T12:04:00.000-07:002012-03-29T12:04:04.818-07:00Rest Day Enlightenment<span style="color: white;">Rest days (RRG)</span>: During my constant struggle to stay occupied in Miquel's dimly lit basement, I was fortunate to run into an equally anxious crew from Burlington, Vermont. Ben related with my extreme interest in climbing films and urged me to watch "The Wizard's Apprentice", a digital download of Ondra's latest. Rather than ranting about Ondra's try hard tactics and trying to justify/defend his war cries, I simply encourage everyone to check this thing out for yourself. The film includes interviews from Ondra, family, coaches, and fellow elite climbers. Watching Ondra climb is impressive, but hearing the story behind it all really puts things in perspective.<br />
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With a full days rest in me and an adequate "try-hard" lesson under my belt, I managed to complete Spank (5.13a) second go. This marks the first route of the grade that hasn't taken an excess of 20+ tries to complete. Training and progression is finally starting to make its mark. The remainder of the trip consisted of mileage and heart-breaker finishing moves.<br />
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<span style="color: yellow;">Rest day activities: </span><br />
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<ul><li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Excessive Ondra footage</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Six-topping pizzas from Miquel's (Chicken, avocado, chorizo/bacon, pineapple, onion, tomato)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">An undefeated chess record against many University of Richmond business students</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hobo style coffee: French press Starbuck's (Cafe Verona), stolen sugar packets from local gas stations (stashed in glove compartment), creamer: non-refrigerated chocolate almond milk. Ale 8 double fist combo for increased caffination and chaser for HSC (hobo style coffee).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Thinking of ways I could be more productive (showering, email, ect.), but instead, continuing to watch Jonathan Siegrist make the RRG look like a P wall at Peak Experiences.</span></li>
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</span></div><div>In spirit of "The Wizard's Apprentice" turning out to be pretty legit, I posted over an hour of Ondra footage below. Also, I strategically posted "calm" videos towards the top and "louder" footage below. So, if screaming isn't your thing, stick to the first five. At least turn your volume down to avoid frustration and blowing out a speaker or eardrum. Enjoy.</div><div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
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What Happens When You Actually Give a **** (<span style="color: yellow;">Adam Ondra</span>)<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23695460?autoplay=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="224" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/6747749?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="398"></iframe><br />
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<span style="color: yellow;">Changing the Game in 2011 (Andrew Palmer)</span><br />
<a href="http://direct.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/changing-game"><span style="color: white;">http://direct.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/changing-game</span></a>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-50389531145573117742011-11-07T11:47:00.000-08:002012-07-15T18:15:59.695-07:00September 2011: Nor'easter UBC, Still Life, Hound Ears<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">Hound Ears 2011</span></div>
Men's Open Results: Advanced Women: <br />
1. Brad Weaver <span style="color: white;"> 1.</span><span style="color: yellow;"> Kati Peters</span><br />
2. Nate Draughn 2. Ann Raber<br />
3. <span style="color: yellow;">Andrew Palmer <span style="color: black;"> <span style="color: white;">3. Jillian Sompel</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: white;">Women's Beginner: </span> <span style="color: white;">Intermediate Women:</span></div>
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1. Maley Wagner 1. <span style="color: yellow;">Katherine Marek</span></div>
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2. Grace Robertson 2. KP Peress</div>
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3. <span style="color: yellow;">Corrie Littlepage</span> 3. Jennifer Poe</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="color: orange;">Matt Londrey</span> baring down on Fuc Yo (V10)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="color: orange;">Ben Copolillo</span>, biting back on Jaws II Direct (V8) </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="color: yellow;">Shane Messer</span> finger painting (bleeding) Oral Resume (V10)</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="color: yellow;"> DPM Video Report:</span> Hound Ears Comp<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30074068?color=ff9933" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe><br />
New Problems at Houndears by <span style="color: yellow;">Webb </span>and <span style="color: yellow;">Voges</span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span><br />
Houndears 2011, Cruxn (<span style="color: yellow;">Far From Home Productions</span>)<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30126713?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/30126713">Hound Ears 2011 (Triple Crown Bouldering Series)</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/farfromhome">Far From Home Productions</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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Still Life <span style="color: black;">5.14b</span> <span style="color: white;">****</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LCj2G_g1vQU/To09vZawEwI/AAAAAAAAAJE/dWCAqWDtKqQ/s1600/305880_2030654137316_1572990110_31617125_96277514_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LCj2G_g1vQU/To09vZawEwI/AAAAAAAAAJE/dWCAqWDtKqQ/s320/305880_2030654137316_1572990110_31617125_96277514_n.jpg" width="313" /></a></div>
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"This is currently the hardest route in the region. It climbs the consistently angled wall on the small buttress right of the main amphitheatre. A pumping 5.13b section leads up to a decent shake before the business. Some v-hard bouldering involving a dyno or a difficult static move using a horrible sloper takes you to a big gaston, a razor crimp and the anchors. This route was orginally equipped by Porter Jarrard but the first ascent feel to Joel Brady in 1999 at the grade of 5.13d. While working on the second ascent of the route, Matt Bosley broke a hold and felt obligated to 'reopen' it. He succeeded on Memorial Day, 2006. The grade is speculation as Matt didn't suggest one. With only one repeat time will tell but it certainly lies in the 14a/b range."</div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">50 ft. 8 bolts. bolt anchor. Joel Brady 1999, Matt Bosley 2006</span></div>
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-NRG Guide Book (Mikey Williams)</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Andrew Palmer, post-send pump, Still Life (5.14b)</span>. <span style="font-size: x-small;">Sick work my man! <span style="font-size: xx-small;">(Photo: Aaron McCrady)</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: red;">Thomas Neyer <span style="color: black;">on</span> <span style="color: #cccccc;">Still Life</span></span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BONFBYo4Jas/TqRLjC3xmMI/AAAAAAAAAJg/U2SMleQLDyM/s1600/NRG-491.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BONFBYo4Jas/TqRLjC3xmMI/AAAAAAAAAJg/U2SMleQLDyM/s320/NRG-491.jpg" width="212" /></a><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/FgVRR6dtA5w" width="420"></iframe><br />
<span style="color: orange; font-size: xx-small;">Stephen </span><span style="color: orange; font-size: xx-small;">Meinhold</span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">gently grabbing holds so they don't break (right image) </span> <br />
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Emotional</div>
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/16112461">Emotional?</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user717634">Joey Kinder</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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<span style="color: lime;">Nor'easter</span> <span style="color: black;"><span style="color: white;">UBC</span> </span><span style="color: red;">Pro Tour</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Shane Messer</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Lady Peters gettin it done in finals</span></td></tr>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/29604533?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/29604533">The Unified Bouldering Championships - The North Face Open Highlights!</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user924683">NE2C</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-28319166767059384742011-08-31T21:31:00.000-07:002011-10-23T09:27:21.014-07:00Dave Graham InterviewThis deserves its own post..<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="220" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/6048642?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=ffffff" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/6048642">Dave Graham interview</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/flowmedia">Simon Sticker/ Flow Media</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-13482575893210587212011-05-29T20:35:00.000-07:002011-06-27T19:50:52.911-07:00A Return to Sport Climbing, 2011 New River Rendezvous, and Some Old Fashioned SLSAfter a long fall/winter season of bouldering, I'm slowly but surely becoming reacclimated to climbing routes again. I'm stoked to see to that bouldering has paid off in that individual moves feel much easier. However, I could use some work on movement/climbing pace, fluidity, and committing to dynamic moves on rope.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SMg2V5FORfg/TeL2WuDfAzI/AAAAAAAAAG4/HK8iXbZ-qNA/s1600/246704_10150628523585063_729645062_18555064_1992476_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SMg2V5FORfg/TeL2WuDfAzI/AAAAAAAAAG4/HK8iXbZ-qNA/s400/246704_10150628523585063_729645062_18555064_1992476_n.jpg" width="265" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4sjwmRvbNG4/TeL28o_fPDI/AAAAAAAAAHA/09eRNBrhLY0/s1600/248081_10150202549580842_36844570841_6866450_967966_n%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4sjwmRvbNG4/TeL28o_fPDI/AAAAAAAAAHA/09eRNBrhLY0/s400/248081_10150202549580842_36844570841_6866450_967966_n%25282%2529.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><span style="font-size: x-small;">After lowering from my short-term proj (The POD, 5.13b), Chris Sharma was next in line, hopping on </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Full Metal Brisket project, projected to be within the 5.14+ range. (Right) Sharma, casually cruising through the pod move. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Attempting to cool down on Apollo Reed (5.13a)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">Stephen Meinhold making easy work of Mercy Seat (5.13a) and Sharma testing </span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">out B.C. (5.13c)?</span></div></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The POD (5.13b) Summersville Lake, NRG</span></td></tr>
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With mid-April's less than ideal weather/temps (for bouldering), I managed to make two last try efforts on SLS (Grayson Highlands State Park), a boulder that had stumped me on previous trips and was swiftly creeping into send potential range. The first was a solo mission to GHSP in the early AM, providing me with many beta tweeks and a sense of optimism.<br />
<br />
Shane Messer, Triangle Rock Club's head route setter and youth team coach, managed to stand on top of the boulder several years ago. Despite occasional efforts by Adam Walker, Aaron Parlier, Justin Miller, and myself, southwest VA has been unable to match Raleigh's strong man (although capable). The problem remains unrepeated. From my understanding, the name SLS, aka Some Litz Shit (shh..don't tell anyone!) assumes that James Litz previously walked this line years ago while visiting GHSP (a break from crushing in the Obed, TN). A race for a second ascent sounded pretty silly knowing that a likely previous ascentionist (Litz) cruised the thing, and was either too humble or just didn't care enough to take part in the "I was first" game.<br />
<br />
Still, SLS remained close to home (2 hr range) and represented a next level of Virginia bouldering. In hopes that a night sess would provide the appropriate conditions, Justin and I hiked into GHSP with Redbull in hand and went to work.. <br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="299" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/24184220?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" width="398"></iframe>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-29750407833085575532011-05-19T12:57:00.000-07:002011-05-26T20:29:04.622-07:00BRMS Boulder Bash 2011<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-urdGZ0cHXqk/TdVyr59Nw6I/AAAAAAAAAGk/kjOPVM7hH7o/s640/230285_10150174502279372_506834371_6776310_4014290_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Matt Londrey killing it on the semifinals route.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gA9R2GqOigc/TdVyNUT-tcI/AAAAAAAAAGc/qOAlu_pxRL4/s1600/231048_10100653272942603_2231869_63606140_2298556_n.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WUhM_HWwVJw/TdVxdSxovbI/AAAAAAAAAGY/7wlscarnTF4/s1600/242074_10150612546515361_423152925360_18442468_2866462_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ip9cp9zMl1I/TdVymXl-gGI/AAAAAAAAAGg/T60BLi0KmAQ/s640/229587_10150174502349372_506834371_6776311_7758059_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Epically close to sticking the final crux and finishing above the majority of the field!</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Kati Peters truly reppin the 804 and looking stronger than ever. Keep a look out for this girl, shes about to take the comp scene by storm..psyched to see the progression become full-circle. Kris and Dave with the spot.</span></div><br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 7.5pt;"></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gA9R2GqOigc/TdVyNUT-tcI/AAAAAAAAAGc/qOAlu_pxRL4/s1600/231048_10100653272942603_2231869_63606140_2298556_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A78sleOf9J8/TdVxQiw2B7I/AAAAAAAAAGU/0kRDOUz7e74/s1600/241387_10150612690895361_423152925360_18444024_7790460_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A78sleOf9J8/TdVxQiw2B7I/AAAAAAAAAGU/0kRDOUz7e74/s320/241387_10150612690895361_423152925360_18444024_7790460_o.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="212" /> </a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HPopDQronYg/TdV2eB9jqMI/AAAAAAAAAGo/t4hZJlJTZu4/s1600/242074_10150612546515361_423152925360_18442468_2866462_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HPopDQronYg/TdV2eB9jqMI/AAAAAAAAAGo/t4hZJlJTZu4/s320/242074_10150612546515361_423152925360_18442468_2866462_o.jpg" width="212" /></a><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gA9R2GqOigc/TdVyNUT-tcI/AAAAAAAAAGc/qOAlu_pxRL4/s640/231048_10100653272942603_2231869_63606140_2298556_n.jpg" width="424" /><br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WUhM_HWwVJw/TdVxdSxovbI/AAAAAAAAAGY/7wlscarnTF4/s1600/242074_10150612546515361_423152925360_18442468_2866462_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WUhM_HWwVJw/TdVxdSxovbI/AAAAAAAAAGY/7wlscarnTF4/s1600/242074_10150612546515361_423152925360_18442468_2866462_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;"></div><iframe frameborder="0" height="224" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23886533?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" width="398"></iframe><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">Dead Point</span><span style="color: orange;">, <span style="color: white;">On Point</span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-imkIQSki1D0/TdV6iMqekyI/AAAAAAAAAGs/z-CUSatO0JU/s1600/225127_547667403867_89600125_31672468_2232541_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEYF83gHr3g/TdV76QjjEfI/AAAAAAAAAGw/pOR2FfVIHc4/s1600/1ae0f7f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEYF83gHr3g/TdV76QjjEfI/AAAAAAAAAGw/pOR2FfVIHc4/s320/1ae0f7f.jpg" width="212" /></a><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-imkIQSki1D0/TdV6iMqekyI/AAAAAAAAAGs/z-CUSatO0JU/s400/225127_547667403867_89600125_31672468_2232541_n.jpg" width="400" /></div><br />
Results<br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;">Mens: </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 1. Zach Lerner</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 2. Paul Robinson</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 3. Daniel Woods</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 4. Ryan Banister</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 5. Alex Johnson</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> <span style="color: yellow;">6. Matt Londrey</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;">Womens:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 1. Sasha Digiulian</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 2. Angie Payne</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 3. Leanna Lockhart</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 4. Charlotte Bosley</span><br />
<div style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 5. Kati Peters</span></div><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> 6. Courtney Sanders</span><br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4BOmbVuzkLk" width="560"></iframe>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-2166012753413245342011-05-10T15:18:00.000-07:002011-05-19T12:21:04.346-07:00Dominion River Rock Bouldering Competition 2011 (Pre-comp)<div style="text-align: left;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l1wzo8kG8mI/Tc17uti7COI/AAAAAAAAAGI/MKMnL7IqBJ0/s1600/229184_222545384437529_100000462082074_911150_5340130_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l1wzo8kG8mI/Tc17uti7COI/AAAAAAAAAGI/MKMnL7IqBJ0/s400/229184_222545384437529_100000462082074_911150_5340130_n.jpg" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h1 style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Holly McMullen forerunning for the comp, Friday morning.</span></h1></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O2iDIy5IPlc/TcnMiCLIwLI/AAAAAAAAAGE/AFKJ9r7miPg/s1600/2011-04-29_16-30-29_172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O2iDIy5IPlc/TcnMiCLIwLI/AAAAAAAAAGE/AFKJ9r7miPg/s400/2011-04-29_16-30-29_172.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Brent Quesenberry, head route setter and youth climbing coach at Peak Experiences, looking small under his next-level creation.</span></div></td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<br />
Andrew Palmer crushing on Brent's creation.<br />
<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="224" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23441916?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" width="398"></iframe><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AYUljbe_VEg/Tc2CmIV1TII/AAAAAAAAAGQ/N8nb56tBUhA/s1600%0A/228067_222387294453338_100000462082074_910209_6817606_n%25282%2529.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AYUljbe_VEg/Tc2CmIV1TII/AAAAAAAAAGQ/N8nb56tBUhA/s400/228067_222387294453338_100000462082074_910209_6817606_n%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Nate doin work.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GF5gnkVSzHo/Tc2Ch71DN8I/AAAAAAAAAGM/z6DGutQh_2M/s1600/226657_222387311120003_100000462082074_910210_7232427_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GF5gnkVSzHo/Tc2Ch71DN8I/AAAAAAAAAGM/z6DGutQh_2M/s320/226657_222387311120003_100000462082074_910210_7232427_n.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Nate Draughn forerunning.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AYUljbe_VEg/Tc2CmIV1TII/AAAAAAAAAGQ/N8nb56tBUhA/s1600/228067_222387294453338_100000462082074_910209_6817606_n%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-75219093768026919122011-05-01T11:55:00.000-07:002011-05-26T20:31:51.669-07:00M-Knob, Southwest VA<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y44S1lKEnCY/Tb2sT1VPWVI/AAAAAAAAAFg/fUB9S_dPQb0/s1600/47850_1605896149088_1286689281_31696595_2480724_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y44S1lKEnCY/Tb2sT1VPWVI/AAAAAAAAAFg/fUB9S_dPQb0/s640/47850_1605896149088_1286689281_31696595_2480724_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Left finger dish on Dave's Line</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_MFolSgbI4g/Tb2sOL5F4GI/AAAAAAAAAFc/F8f1iTrsjJU/s1600/41200_10150265897745063_729645062_14466448_7131683_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="434" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_MFolSgbI4g/Tb2sOL5F4GI/AAAAAAAAAFc/F8f1iTrsjJU/s640/41200_10150265897745063_729645062_14466448_7131683_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Roadside, Spring 2010</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OmRfJysydqY/Tb2qdVFd2OI/AAAAAAAAAFU/IdyhSwSKrms/s1600/n729645062_1122002_5428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OmRfJysydqY/Tb2qdVFd2OI/AAAAAAAAAFU/IdyhSwSKrms/s400/n729645062_1122002_5428.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">Mickey Mouse boulders (aka The Guardian Angel according to the </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">elderly townie women of Salem, VA).</span></div></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zyZRMoHQjsw/Tb2qkIuYEeI/AAAAAAAAAFY/-n3kYe6J-G0/s1600/n729645062_2827934_5607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zyZRMoHQjsw/Tb2qkIuYEeI/AAAAAAAAAFY/-n3kYe6J-G0/s400/n729645062_2827934_5607.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"></div><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable"><tbody>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0in;"><div></div><div align="center"><div style="text-align: center;"></div><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable"><tbody>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0in;"><div style="text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: xx-small;"></span> <br />
<div align="center"><div style="text-align: center;"></div><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable"><tbody>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0in;"><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip. </span></span></div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"></span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td> <td style="padding: 0in;"><br />
</td> </tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"></span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td> <td style="padding: 0in;"><br />
</td> </tr>
</tbody></table></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Two From Roadside<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="299" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/22471782?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" width="398"></iframe>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-54367709765110871932011-04-16T20:37:00.000-07:002011-08-29T07:30:51.194-07:00Bouldering Winter 2010 (Part Two)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Moore's Wall (King, NC) </div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gH0YKNw1NjE/TaEbwOOAU8I/AAAAAAAAAFM/-koBtdhmohA/s1600/180813_10150412895360063_729645062_17104842_8047280_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gH0YKNw1NjE/TaEbwOOAU8I/AAAAAAAAAFM/-koBtdhmohA/s640/180813_10150412895360063_729645062_17104842_8047280_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Latching the "danger hold" on Tsunami Low (V10) Moore's Wall, NC</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/8652811?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=ff9933" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/8652811">Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/louderthan11">Louder Than 11</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ja8SYJatjm8/TZ4d9CL8I2I/AAAAAAAAAEs/YAoiZvuhNC4/s1600/188973_823965773836_1508670_45908378_3378309_n.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ja8SYJatjm8/TZ4d9CL8I2I/AAAAAAAAAEs/YAoiZvuhNC4/s320/188973_823965773836_1508670_45908378_3378309_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">Handthrax, one of several V8s prepping me with the necessary strength, </span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">endurance, and pain tolerance to finish up Super Tsunami.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 7.5pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">Masterlock (V9),</span><span style="font-size: 7.5pt;"> the ultra classic, core/shoulder intensive line (to the </span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: 7.5pt;">left of Handthrax), went soon after completing Tsunami (Low). </span></div></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Tsunami Low (V10)</span></td></tr>
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Super Tsunami</div><iframe frameborder="0" height="299" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/20690036?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" width="398"></iframe>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-48269461612359446982011-03-20T18:10:00.000-07:002011-06-14T20:17:20.851-07:00Bouldering Winter 2010 (Part One)Rumbling Bald (Lake Lure, NC)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m4KWCrfVSzc/TZ8mTj7-TNI/AAAAAAAAAE8/c68nUNXafJA/s1600/72235_535476918265_46401478_31061507_6276219_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m4KWCrfVSzc/TZ8mTj7-TNI/AAAAAAAAAE8/c68nUNXafJA/s640/72235_535476918265_46401478_31061507_6276219_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The mate man himself, Wes Walker. Wes is the dude you </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">arbitrarily </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">stumble upon during an afternoon bouldering sess..by the time evening rolls around, you'd swear you've known the guy for years. Fueled by the nougatocity of Snickers, yerba mate brewed via Jet Boil french press, American Spirits, and some cali tree, Wes exhibits a constant state of psyche incomparable to the acclaimed "lifestyle climbers" I've met. In the deep, indefinite religion that is climbing , Wes Walker is the prophet of meniacal, try-hard night sessioning. With the limitations associated with springtime temps, a petzl headlamp and propane-fueled lantern may be the necessary means to getting the job done. Late one Sunday night in mid-March, Wes texted me at 3am. The text confirmed that he had just made it to the top of his long term project (Fresh Water V10, Rumbling Bald, NC). For Wes, being emotionally invested is a healthy part of the process, rather than creating anxiety or jeopardizing aspects of the "real world". </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Despite the tedious drive home to Charleston, SC and having work in the early morn, Wes remained ecstatic about his efforts. </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">It appears that climbing hard and exhibiting a sense of multi-dimension can be achieved..with the expense of a good night's sleep and some hard earned gas money. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div><span style="font-size: x-small;">Wes Walker..legend, mentor, and friend </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">(No he's not dead, I just won't have the chance to see him for a while) </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Gettin gymnastic on Patio Roof (V8)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Wes ass rocketing off the two-move wonder, Honest Abe (V8) </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The sloper traverse to the top out.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Justin and I managed to make quick work of Saltwater (V9), with the help of alternative outswing lockoff beta. </span></td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Brackish Waters </div><br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="299" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/22184283?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=0" width="398"></iframe><br />
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<img border="0" height="490" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Byq5Dxh4u3s/TfgjaEJ53KI/AAAAAAAAAHY/iL527fY2CCw/s640/249878_556190772535_46401478_31211573_3837469_n.jpg" width="640" />Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9067633505928805133.post-54149665314164880502011-03-08T18:46:00.000-08:002011-06-27T19:51:43.204-07:00The Relentless Pursuit to Keep the Psych High<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Stephen Meinhold crushing on finals route #4, Darkhorse Series, Feb 27, 2010</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6vy3w1Dabg/Tcm_m9e2XfI/AAAAAAAAAGA/va8K1mrl394/s1600/26408_111212088892354_111211575559072_256033_1288475_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6vy3w1Dabg/Tcm_m9e2XfI/AAAAAAAAAGA/va8K1mrl394/s320/26408_111212088892354_111211575559072_256033_1288475_n.jpg" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="fbPhotoTheaterCaption mbs" id="fbPhotoTheaterCaption" tabindex="0"><div class="clearfix fbPhotoInlineCaptionEditor editor"><div class="fbPhotoCaption"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Nalle on James' Giant Peach, 8A at Koh Tao, Thailand.</span></div></div></div></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Daniel Woods on Kine Traverse (V11) RMNP, C</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">In the relentless pursuit to keep the psych high, I've posted the images capable of enduring the previous months as my desktop background. Throughout my senior year at Radford, these gentlemen have been a constant reminder to try hard and push onward in hopes that only forward progression can follow.</span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> .</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rgA_Yh__xW8/TXbm3e0x3PI/AAAAAAAAAD8/oyfpViGe7s8/s1600/climbing24.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rgA_Yh__xW8/TXbm3e0x3PI/AAAAAAAAAD8/oyfpViGe7s8/s200/climbing24.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Magnus Midtbo on Blood Redemption (8C) Bergen,</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> Norway</span>.<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> Looks like Sasha's got herself a keeper.</span></td></tr>
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<tr align="right"><td><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> Sharma on his new Oliana proj. </span> </div><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Projected to be in the 5.15c range</span></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NTh1SH3x7Lw/TXbm681M_gI/AAAAAAAAAEA/5YkW05pP25E/s1600/Sharma-Small-Hold-Proj-600.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NTh1SH3x7Lw/TXbm681M_gI/AAAAAAAAAEA/5YkW05pP25E/s320/Sharma-Small-Hold-Proj-600.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: xx-small;"></span></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Andy Cutlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00800889403384770044noreply@blogger.com0