A Return to Sport Climbing, 2011 New River Rendezvous, and Some Old Fashioned SLS

After a long fall/winter season of bouldering, I'm slowly but surely becoming reacclimated to climbing routes again. I'm stoked to see to that bouldering has paid off in that individual moves feel much easier.  However, I could use some work on movement/climbing pace, fluidity, and committing to dynamic moves on rope.

After lowering from my short-term proj (The POD, 5.13b), Chris Sharma was next in line, hopping on The Full Metal Brisket project, projected to be within the 5.14+ range.  (Right) Sharma, casually cruising through the pod move.  

Attempting to cool down on Apollo Reed (5.13a)

Stephen Meinhold making easy work of Mercy Seat (5.13a) and Sharma testing

out B.C. (5.13c)?

The POD (5.13b) Summersville Lake, NRG

With mid-April's less than ideal weather/temps (for bouldering), I managed to make two last try efforts on SLS (Grayson Highlands State Park), a boulder that had stumped me on previous trips and was swiftly creeping into send potential range.  The first was a solo mission to GHSP in the early AM, providing me with many beta tweeks and a sense of optimism.

Shane Messer, Triangle Rock Club's head route setter and youth team coach, managed to stand on top of the boulder several years ago.  Despite occasional efforts by Adam Walker, Aaron Parlier, Justin Miller, and myself, southwest VA has been unable to match Raleigh's strong man (although capable).  The problem remains unrepeated.  From my understanding, the name SLS, aka Some Litz Shit (shh..don't tell anyone!) assumes that James Litz previously walked this line years ago while visiting GHSP (a break from crushing in the Obed, TN).  A race for a second ascent sounded pretty silly knowing that a likely previous ascentionist (Litz) cruised the thing, and was either too humble or just didn't care enough to take part in the "I was first" game.

Still, SLS remained close to home (2 hr range) and represented a next level of Virginia bouldering.  In hopes that a night sess would provide the appropriate conditions, Justin and I hiked into GHSP with Redbull in hand and went to work.. 

BRMS Boulder Bash 2011

Matt Londrey killing it on the semifinals route.

Epically close to sticking the final crux and finishing above the majority of the field!

Kati Peters truly reppin the 804 and looking stronger than ever. Keep a look out for this girl, shes about to take the comp scene by storm..psyched to see the progression become full-circle.  Kris and Dave with the spot.

                              Dead Point, On Point
                                                        

Results
  Mens:                                          
   1. Zach Lerner
   2. Paul Robinson
   3. Daniel Woods
   4. Ryan Banister
   5. Alex Johnson
   6. Matt Londrey

Womens:
  1. Sasha Digiulian
  2. Angie Payne
  3. Leanna Lockhart
  4. Charlotte Bosley

  5. Kati Peters

  6. Courtney Sanders

Dominion River Rock Bouldering Competition 2011 (Pre-comp)

Holly McMullen forerunning for the comp, Friday morning.

Brent Quesenberry, head route setter and youth climbing coach at Peak Experiences, looking small under his next-level creation.

          

Andrew Palmer crushing on Brent's creation.

Nate doin work.

Nate Draughn forerunning.

M-Knob, Southwest VA

Left finger dish on Dave's Line

Roadside, Spring 2010

Mickey Mouse boulders (aka The Guardian Angel according to the 
elderly townie women of Salem, VA).

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Two From Roadside

Bouldering Winter 2010 (Part Two)

Moore's Wall (King, NC) 

Latching the "danger hold" on Tsunami Low (V10) Moore's Wall, NC

Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Handthrax, one of several V8s prepping me with the necessary strength,

endurance, and pain tolerance to finish up Super Tsunami.

Masterlock (V9), the ultra classic, core/shoulder intensive line (to the

left of Handthrax), went soon after completing Tsunami (Low).

Tsunami Low (V10)

Super Tsunami

Bouldering Winter 2010 (Part One)

Rumbling Bald (Lake Lure, NC)

The mate man himself, Wes Walker. Wes is the dude you arbitrarily stumble upon during an afternoon bouldering sess..by the time evening rolls around, you'd swear you've known the guy for years. Fueled by the nougatocity of Snickers, yerba mate brewed via Jet Boil french press, American Spirits, and some cali tree, Wes exhibits a constant state of psyche incomparable to the acclaimed "lifestyle climbers" I've met.  In the deep, indefinite religion that is climbing , Wes Walker is the prophet of meniacal, try-hard night sessioning.  With the limitations associated with springtime temps, a petzl headlamp and propane-fueled lantern may be the necessary means to getting the job done.  Late one Sunday night in mid-March, Wes texted me at 3am.  The text confirmed that he had just made it to the top of his long term project (Fresh Water V10, Rumbling Bald, NC).  For Wes, being emotionally invested is a healthy part of the process, rather than creating anxiety or jeopardizing aspects of the "real world".  Despite the tedious drive home to Charleston, SC and having work in the early morn, Wes remained ecstatic about his efforts.  It appears that climbing hard and exhibiting a sense of multi-dimension can be achieved..with the expense of a good night's sleep and some hard earned gas money. 

Wes Walker..legend, mentor, and friend 
(No he's not dead, I just won't have the chance to see him for a while)

Gettin gymnastic on Patio Roof (V8)

Wes ass rocketing off the two-move wonder, Honest Abe (V8)

The sloper traverse to the top out.

Justin and I managed to make quick work of Saltwater (V9), with the help of alternative outswing lockoff beta.

Brackish Waters

The Relentless Pursuit to Keep the Psych High

Stephen Meinhold crushing on finals route #4, Darkhorse Series, Feb 27, 2010

Nalle on James' Giant Peach, 8A at Koh Tao, Thailand.

Daniel Woods on Kine Traverse (V11) RMNP, C

In the relentless pursuit to keep the psych high, I've posted the images capable of enduring the previous months as my desktop background. Throughout my senior year at Radford, these gentlemen have been a constant reminder to try hard and push onward in hopes that only forward progression can follow.

 .

Magnus Midtbo on Blood Redemption (8C) Bergen,
Norway. Looks like Sasha's got herself a keeper.

  Sharma on his new Oliana proj. 

Projected to be in the 5.15c range