Sunday, May 29, 2011

A Return to Sport Climbing, 2011 New River Rendezvous, and Some Old Fashioned SLS

After a long fall/winter season of bouldering, I'm slowly but surely becoming reacclimated to climbing routes again. I'm stoked to see to that bouldering has paid off in that individual moves feel much easier.  However, I could use some work on movement/climbing pace, fluidity, and committing to dynamic moves on rope.

After lowering from my short-term proj (The POD, 5.13b), Chris Sharma was next in line, hopping on The Full Metal Brisket project, projected to be within the 5.14+ range.  (Right) Sharma, casually cruising through the pod move.  

Attempting to cool down on Apollo Reed (5.13a)
Stephen Meinhold making easy work of Mercy Seat (5.13a) and Sharma testing
out B.C. (5.13c)?
The POD (5.13b) Summersville Lake, NRG




With mid-April's less than ideal weather/temps (for bouldering), I managed to make two last try efforts on SLS (Grayson Highlands State Park), a boulder that had stumped me on previous trips and was swiftly creeping into send potential range.  The first was a solo mission to GHSP in the early AM, providing me with many beta tweeks and a sense of optimism.

Shane Messer, Triangle Rock Club's head route setter and youth team coach, managed to stand on top of the boulder several years ago.  Despite occasional efforts by Adam Walker, Aaron Parlier, Justin Miller, and myself, southwest VA has been unable to match Raleigh's strong man (although capable).  The problem remains unrepeated.  From my understanding, the name SLS, aka Some Litz Shit (shh..don't tell anyone!) assumes that James Litz previously walked this line years ago while visiting GHSP (a break from crushing in the Obed, TN).  A race for a second ascent sounded pretty silly knowing that a likely previous ascentionist (Litz) cruised the thing, and was either too humble or just didn't care enough to take part in the "I was first" game.

Still, SLS remained close to home (2 hr range) and represented a next level of Virginia bouldering.  In hopes that a night sess would provide the appropriate conditions, Justin and I hiked into GHSP with Redbull in hand and went to work.. 


3 comments:

  1. OMG i just realized that you had a picture of Sharma. I am so trying his beta next time.

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  2. Is Stephen is on Mercy Seat/some crazy linkup to B.C.?

    ReplyDelete
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