Coliseum Triple Crown

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The Eye of Odin (8c+) Dani, Magnus, and Ethan

So typically, I try to stear clear from posting random videos that are unrelated to my own climbing or the local crew (with the exception of the training and psych page).  I'll leave that task to DPM and CNarc..Couldn't resist with the one. The story behind this thing is pretty unreal.  Props to Ethan for the film, edit, and music selection...oh yea, and the FA. Ondra swooped in with the onsight a few days later.


The Eye of Odin (8c+) first ascent from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.

When Idols Become Rivals (The stout field of DRR)

Forerunners and Routesetters:

Nate Draughn and Rami Annab

Dave Wetmore and Shane Messer (Routesetters)

Competitors:

Josh Larson, Lexington (MA), Age 26

Matt Bosley, Parkville (MD), Age 33

Ryan Banister, Timonium (MD), Age 26

Devin Doyle , Raleigh (NC), Age 22

Alex Johnson, Denver (CO), Age  20

Ian Chavis, Richmond (VA), Age 25

Peter Grill, Boone (NC), Age 20

Austin Boze, Richmond (VA), Age 19

Tim Rose, Elliotsburg (PA), Age 27

Andy Cutler, Richmond (VA) Age 23

Daniel Woods, Boulder (CO), Age 22

Jimmy Webb, Chattanooga (TN), 24

Paul Robinson, Moorestown (NJ), Age 24

Andrew Palmer, Midlothian (VA), Age 24

Michael O'Rourke, Boulder (CO), Age 17

Matt Londrey, Richmond (VA), Age 21

Taylor McNeil, Cary (NC), Age 21

Vasya Vorotnikov, Newark (DE), Age 25

Carlo Traversi, Boulder (CO), Age 23

Dominion River Rock 2012 Boulder Qualifiers

Professional Dirtbaggers

Alf Randell: A Desert Life


"Alf Randell is a self-described "dirtbag" who has spent nearly a decade of his life climbing amongst the soaring sandstone cliffs of Indian Creek, Utah. In November, 2011, I spent some time climbing with Alf and documented his life in "The Creek," his love of tall splitter cracks, and his decision to shun city life in favor of a small camper in the middle of the Utah desert."
-Austin Siadak

Jonny Corndawg: Stray Dawg


"Meet Jonny Corndawg, the underground country-music legend. A born-and-bred Virginian, Jonny has played on five continents in as many years, and every state in the lower 48. Now Jonny has given himself over, heart and heel, to the world of Running.


Like most country musicians, Jonny spends more time on the road than on terra firma, more on stage than off, but with all that, Jonny is gaining a name for waking up daily, before and after every show, and burning ten miles while bandmates sleep off their evenings. Imagine Hank Williams Jr. from the belt up, Steve Prefontaine from the waistband down, throw in a gallon of water and a knack for showmanship, and what do you get? One of the great American vitalists, Jonny Corndawg.


Jonny let us follow him on a tour down the California coast as he braved injury and isolation on his quest to complete the Surf City USA Marathon in Huntington Beach, CA."
-Sean Dunne

Thirty Five

Rest Day Enlightenment

Rest days (RRG): During my constant struggle to stay occupied in Miquel's dimly lit basement, I was fortunate to run into an equally anxious crew from Burlington, Vermont.  Ben related with my extreme interest in climbing films and urged me to watch "The Wizard's Apprentice", a digital download of Ondra's latest. Rather than ranting about Ondra's try hard tactics and trying to justify/defend his war cries, I simply encourage everyone to check this thing out for yourself.  The film includes interviews from Ondra, family, coaches, and fellow elite climbers. Watching Ondra climb is impressive, but hearing the story behind it all really puts things in perspective.

With a full days rest in me and an adequate "try-hard" lesson under my belt, I managed to complete Spank (5.13a) second go.  This marks the first route of the grade that hasn't taken an excess of 20+ tries to complete. Training and progression is finally starting to make its mark. The remainder of the trip consisted of mileage and heart-breaker finishing moves.


Rest day activities: 

• Excessive Ondra footage
• Six-topping pizzas from Miquel's (Chicken, avocado, chorizo/bacon, pineapple, onion, tomato)
• An undefeated chess record against many University of Richmond business students
• Hobo style coffee: French press Starbuck's (Cafe Verona), stolen sugar packets from local gas stations (stashed in glove compartment), creamer: non-refrigerated chocolate almond milk.  Ale 8 double fist combo for increased caffination and chaser for HSC (hobo style coffee).
• Thinking of ways I could be more productive (showering, email, ect.), but instead, continuing to watch Jonathan Siegrist make the RRG look like a P wall at Peak Experiences.

In spirit of "The Wizard's Apprentice" turning out to be pretty legit, I posted over an hour of Ondra footage below.  Also, I strategically posted "calm" videos towards the top and "louder" footage below.  So, if screaming isn't your thing, stick to the first five. At least turn your volume down to avoid frustration and blowing out a speaker or eardrum.  Enjoy.

What Happens When You Actually Give a **** (Adam Ondra)















Changing the Game in 2011 (Andrew Palmer)
http://direct.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/changing-game

September 2011: Nor'easter UBC, Still Life, Hound Ears

Hound Ears 2011

Men's Open Results:        Advanced Women: 
1. Brad Weaver                1. Kati Peters
2. Nate Draughn               2. Ann Raber
3. Andrew Palmer             3. Jillian Sompel

Women's Beginner:        Intermediate Women:

1. Maley Wagner           1. Katherine Marek

2. Grace Robertson       2. KP Peress

3. Corrie Littlepage        3. Jennifer Poe

Matt Londrey baring down on Fuc Yo (V10)

Ben Copolillo, biting back on Jaws II Direct (V8)

Shane Messer finger painting (bleeding) Oral Resume (V10)

                                  DPM Video Report: Hound Ears Comp

                                                                                        New Problems at Houndears by Webb and Voges
Houndears 2011, Cruxn (Far From Home Productions)

Hound Ears 2011 (Triple Crown Bouldering Series) from Far From Home Productions on Vimeo.

Still Life 5.14b ****

"This is currently the hardest route in the region. It climbs the consistently angled wall on the small buttress right of the main amphitheatre.  A pumping 5.13b section leads up to a decent shake before the business.  Some v-hard bouldering involving a dyno or a difficult static move using a horrible sloper takes you to a big gaston, a razor crimp and the anchors.  This route was orginally equipped by Porter Jarrard but the first ascent feel to Joel Brady in 1999 at the grade of 5.13d.  While working on the second ascent of the route, Matt Bosley broke a hold and felt obligated to 'reopen' it.  He succeeded on Memorial Day, 2006. The grade is speculation as Matt didn't suggest one.  With only one repeat time will tell but it certainly lies in the 14a/b range."

50 ft. 8 bolts. bolt anchor. Joel Brady 1999, Matt Bosley 2006

 -NRG Guide Book (Mikey Williams)

                                                    Andrew Palmer, post-send pump, Still Life (5.14b). Sick work my man! (Photo: Aaron McCrady)

Thomas Neyer on Still Life

                               Stephen Meinhold gently grabbing holds so they don't break (right image)                   

Emotional

Emotional? from Joey Kinder on Vimeo.

Nor'easter UBC Pro Tour

Shane Messer

Lady Peters gettin it done in finals

The Unified Bouldering Championships - The North Face Open Highlights! from NE2C on Vimeo.