Rest Day Enlightenment

Rest days (RRG): During my constant struggle to stay occupied in Miquel's dimly lit basement, I was fortunate to run into an equally anxious crew from Burlington, Vermont.  Ben related with my extreme interest in climbing films and urged me to watch "The Wizard's Apprentice", a digital download of Ondra's latest. Rather than ranting about Ondra's try hard tactics and trying to justify/defend his war cries, I simply encourage everyone to check this thing out for yourself.  The film includes interviews from Ondra, family, coaches, and fellow elite climbers. Watching Ondra climb is impressive, but hearing the story behind it all really puts things in perspective.

With a full days rest in me and an adequate "try-hard" lesson under my belt, I managed to complete Spank (5.13a) second go.  This marks the first route of the grade that hasn't taken an excess of 20+ tries to complete. Training and progression is finally starting to make its mark. The remainder of the trip consisted of mileage and heart-breaker finishing moves.


Rest day activities: 

• Excessive Ondra footage
• Six-topping pizzas from Miquel's (Chicken, avocado, chorizo/bacon, pineapple, onion, tomato)
• An undefeated chess record against many University of Richmond business students
• Hobo style coffee: French press Starbuck's (Cafe Verona), stolen sugar packets from local gas stations (stashed in glove compartment), creamer: non-refrigerated chocolate almond milk.  Ale 8 double fist combo for increased caffination and chaser for HSC (hobo style coffee).
• Thinking of ways I could be more productive (showering, email, ect.), but instead, continuing to watch Jonathan Siegrist make the RRG look like a P wall at Peak Experiences.

In spirit of "The Wizard's Apprentice" turning out to be pretty legit, I posted over an hour of Ondra footage below.  Also, I strategically posted "calm" videos towards the top and "louder" footage below.  So, if screaming isn't your thing, stick to the first five. At least turn your volume down to avoid frustration and blowing out a speaker or eardrum.  Enjoy.

What Happens When You Actually Give a **** (Adam Ondra)















Changing the Game in 2011 (Andrew Palmer)
http://direct.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/changing-game

September 2011: Nor'easter UBC, Still Life, Hound Ears

Hound Ears 2011

Men's Open Results:        Advanced Women: 
1. Brad Weaver                1. Kati Peters
2. Nate Draughn               2. Ann Raber
3. Andrew Palmer             3. Jillian Sompel

Women's Beginner:        Intermediate Women:

1. Maley Wagner           1. Katherine Marek

2. Grace Robertson       2. KP Peress

3. Corrie Littlepage        3. Jennifer Poe

Matt Londrey baring down on Fuc Yo (V10)

Ben Copolillo, biting back on Jaws II Direct (V8)

Shane Messer finger painting (bleeding) Oral Resume (V10)

                                  DPM Video Report: Hound Ears Comp

                                                                                        New Problems at Houndears by Webb and Voges
Houndears 2011, Cruxn (Far From Home Productions)

Hound Ears 2011 (Triple Crown Bouldering Series) from Far From Home Productions on Vimeo.

Still Life 5.14b ****

"This is currently the hardest route in the region. It climbs the consistently angled wall on the small buttress right of the main amphitheatre.  A pumping 5.13b section leads up to a decent shake before the business.  Some v-hard bouldering involving a dyno or a difficult static move using a horrible sloper takes you to a big gaston, a razor crimp and the anchors.  This route was orginally equipped by Porter Jarrard but the first ascent feel to Joel Brady in 1999 at the grade of 5.13d.  While working on the second ascent of the route, Matt Bosley broke a hold and felt obligated to 'reopen' it.  He succeeded on Memorial Day, 2006. The grade is speculation as Matt didn't suggest one.  With only one repeat time will tell but it certainly lies in the 14a/b range."

50 ft. 8 bolts. bolt anchor. Joel Brady 1999, Matt Bosley 2006

 -NRG Guide Book (Mikey Williams)

                                                    Andrew Palmer, post-send pump, Still Life (5.14b). Sick work my man! (Photo: Aaron McCrady)

Thomas Neyer on Still Life

                               Stephen Meinhold gently grabbing holds so they don't break (right image)                   

Emotional

Emotional? from Joey Kinder on Vimeo.

Nor'easter UBC Pro Tour

Shane Messer

Lady Peters gettin it done in finals

The Unified Bouldering Championships - The North Face Open Highlights! from NE2C on Vimeo.

Dave Graham Interview

This deserves its own post..


Dave Graham interview from Simon Sticker/ Flow Media on Vimeo.

A Return to Sport Climbing, 2011 New River Rendezvous, and Some Old Fashioned SLS

After a long fall/winter season of bouldering, I'm slowly but surely becoming reacclimated to climbing routes again. I'm stoked to see to that bouldering has paid off in that individual moves feel much easier.  However, I could use some work on movement/climbing pace, fluidity, and committing to dynamic moves on rope.

After lowering from my short-term proj (The POD, 5.13b), Chris Sharma was next in line, hopping on The Full Metal Brisket project, projected to be within the 5.14+ range.  (Right) Sharma, casually cruising through the pod move.  

Attempting to cool down on Apollo Reed (5.13a)

Stephen Meinhold making easy work of Mercy Seat (5.13a) and Sharma testing

out B.C. (5.13c)?

The POD (5.13b) Summersville Lake, NRG

With mid-April's less than ideal weather/temps (for bouldering), I managed to make two last try efforts on SLS (Grayson Highlands State Park), a boulder that had stumped me on previous trips and was swiftly creeping into send potential range.  The first was a solo mission to GHSP in the early AM, providing me with many beta tweeks and a sense of optimism.

Shane Messer, Triangle Rock Club's head route setter and youth team coach, managed to stand on top of the boulder several years ago.  Despite occasional efforts by Adam Walker, Aaron Parlier, Justin Miller, and myself, southwest VA has been unable to match Raleigh's strong man (although capable).  The problem remains unrepeated.  From my understanding, the name SLS, aka Some Litz Shit (shh..don't tell anyone!) assumes that James Litz previously walked this line years ago while visiting GHSP (a break from crushing in the Obed, TN).  A race for a second ascent sounded pretty silly knowing that a likely previous ascentionist (Litz) cruised the thing, and was either too humble or just didn't care enough to take part in the "I was first" game.

Still, SLS remained close to home (2 hr range) and represented a next level of Virginia bouldering.  In hopes that a night sess would provide the appropriate conditions, Justin and I hiked into GHSP with Redbull in hand and went to work.. 

BRMS Boulder Bash 2011

Matt Londrey killing it on the semifinals route.

Epically close to sticking the final crux and finishing above the majority of the field!

Kati Peters truly reppin the 804 and looking stronger than ever. Keep a look out for this girl, shes about to take the comp scene by storm..psyched to see the progression become full-circle.  Kris and Dave with the spot.

                              Dead Point, On Point
                                                        

Results
  Mens:                                          
   1. Zach Lerner
   2. Paul Robinson
   3. Daniel Woods
   4. Ryan Banister
   5. Alex Johnson
   6. Matt Londrey

Womens:
  1. Sasha Digiulian
  2. Angie Payne
  3. Leanna Lockhart
  4. Charlotte Bosley

  5. Kati Peters

  6. Courtney Sanders

Dominion River Rock Bouldering Competition 2011 (Pre-comp)

Holly McMullen forerunning for the comp, Friday morning.

Brent Quesenberry, head route setter and youth climbing coach at Peak Experiences, looking small under his next-level creation.

          

Andrew Palmer crushing on Brent's creation.

Nate doin work.

Nate Draughn forerunning.

M-Knob, Southwest VA

Left finger dish on Dave's Line

Roadside, Spring 2010

Mickey Mouse boulders (aka The Guardian Angel according to the 
elderly townie women of Salem, VA).

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Fall 2007. My freshman year at Radford University, I got my first taste of having boulders close to home. With the exception of roadside, local bouldering meant miles of tedious AT hiking and tapping into endurance before reaching the Knob. Many trips later, we concluded that eliminating the hike and simply driving to crags within the 2 hr range would be well worth the trip.

Two From Roadside