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Andy Cutler
Climbing Blog
Saturday, January 11, 2014
Friday, January 10, 2014
Monday, December 24, 2012
Acclimation: Southeast Power Endurance
Salo's Roof (Pep Boys) Soddy Daisy, Tn
Justin captured a post rain climbing experience at The Mill. The clip illustrates three distinct climbing styles and the importance of staying true to the sequence that works best for you. Anything but ideal conditions. Online read 100 % humidity and the cave had condensed. The wall was dark with moisture and the dampened white of the few remaining chalk marks no longer formed the contrast we all look for in a majestic boulder problem. Climbing almost seemed conterproductive and the temptation of a rest day poked at us. Boar's hair brushes were useless and instead seemed to just spread the peanut buttery, toothpaste chalk. We busted out some old wool socks we had sitting in our bags, caked em in chalk, and ran through each sequence a couple times with our hands. It worked! Ultimately, we overcame conditions and a climbing day was saved! Justin managed to send his first v9 along with capturing the footage below. Don't always let conditions dictate your climbing day.
Honey Child v10/v11 starts by climbing Honey comb, a powerful core-intensive v10. At the jug rail, the route exits right, completing Red Headed Stepchild v8 (rather than taking the more moderate v4 exit of Honeycomb). Days after initially completing Honeycomb, a short clip of Matt Ballard on Honeychild appeared on my news feed. Having both individual climbs dialed and a good natural baseline of power endurance, i knew this would be a good fitness link-up to try. After sending Honeychild, I later discovered on 8a that Tim Hink had previously done the link with an even lower sit start variation (Crazer Craver, aka Honeycomb sit, into the RHSC exit). He named the link Bee Line. Since then a jug flake on Crazy Craver has broken, preventing the round about and forcing a more direct line into Honey comb. Next Season!?
Mikey D milking the first mini rest of the Big E.
Roommates gettin it done on "Shiver Me Timbers Direct", powerful try-hard V8.
Photos: Paulina Pena
Roommates gettin it done on "Shiver Me Timbers Direct", powerful try-hard V8.
Photos: Paulina Pena
I Think I can V9, Little Rock City (Crimp ladder eliminant)
Bedwetters V9, LRC
Robbing the Tooth Fairy is characterized by sloping directional holds. It relies heavily on the security of left heel hooks and the push of key right foot smears. Bearing down is important, but without the appropriate foot placements, single moves can feel nearly impossible. Failing to stay focused on each individual move is a no-go. ADD will spit you off this climb. Delicate but powerful!
Bedwetters V9, LRC

Saturday, July 21, 2012
Coliseum Triple Crown
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Deep Throat (13c) |
When the average climber hears the term "triple crown", they typically can't help but envision one particular scenario...Its early to late fall. The van doors open and a sea of crashpad shelled human turtles swarm the bouldering field. The three-location event targets the most stacked boulder fields that the Southeast has to offer: Houndears (Boone), NC, Stone Fort (LRC), TN, and HP40, AL. Its a great time of year. "TRIPLE CROWNNN!" However, I'm not writing this post in regards to Kurt Smith's infamous war-cry. Outdoor bouldering is at the bottom of my list of things to do at the New River Gorge in the middle of July's baking heat.
With a Richmond crew very much psyched on Summersville, I made it a workout goal to complete the Triple Crown (Apollo, Pod, and Mercy Seat) within a day. Regardless of my previous ascents, the coliseum proved to be an excellent training ground..physical climbing, steep terrain, shade, and sustained power endurance (qualities that cater well to my strengths and skill sets). I truly respect the persistence, dedication, and commitment required to complete a long term project; However, there is something to be said about a climber's ability to consistently repeat and reproduce ascents that fall just below an individual's difficulty threshold. Ideally, sending should not be about the luck of the draw. Consistency and precision should replace low probability. Like Dylan Barks and his dispatch of the entire Madness Cave in a day. Climbing 14a is super impressive. But climbing 13d, two 13c's, a 13a, and two more 14a's in a day is no fluke (in July!). Instead, it represents a true testament of fitness, climbing ability, and all day stamina.
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Max Caudle, Apollo Reed (Summersville Lake) |
"The Coliseum could not be more appropriately named. This extremely overhanging wall is a bustling battleground of combat. Shirtless, muscle-bound gladiators wait in line to test their skills against their chosen adversary. The boulders at the base seem custom built to house the slew of cheering onlookers, mostly bi-kini-clad vixens, intent on singling out the strongest young lad with the most perfectly timed "power blat". The routes are steep and classic. Apollo Reed is undoubtedly the most popular 5.13 in the region and stands as the entrance exam to the harder routes in the amphitheatre such as Mercy Seat, B.C, and Pod. The regions hardest route, Still Life, gazes out from the far corner eagerly awaiting its next victim but few step up to the challenge. Most hardmen would rather shoot for climbing the Triple Crown: Apollo, Mercy, and Pod, in a day. It's these select few who usually hike back to the car with the prettiest girl." -Mikey's excerpt from the NRG guide book.
Dean and myself on Suicide Blonde and Deep Throat (Nar Cave). Nothing better than manufactured cruxes and aged nylon perma-draws..
Thursday, July 12, 2012
The Eye of Odin (8c+) Dani, Magnus, and Ethan
So typically, I try to stear clear from posting random videos that are unrelated to my own climbing or the local crew (with the exception of the training and psych page). I'll leave that task to DPM and CNarc..Couldn't resist with the one. The story behind this thing is pretty unreal. Props to Ethan for the film, edit, and music selection...oh yea, and the FA. Ondra swooped in with the onsight a few days later.
The Eye of Odin (8c+) first ascent from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.
The Eye of Odin (8c+) first ascent from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.
Friday, June 1, 2012
When Idols Become Rivals (The stout field of DRR)
Forerunners and Routesetters:
Nate Draughn and Rami Annab
Dave Wetmore and Shane Messer (Routesetters)
Competitors:
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Josh Larson, Lexington (MA), Age 26 |
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Matt Bosley, Parkville (MD), Age 33 |
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Ryan Banister, Timonium (MD), Age 26 |
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Devin Doyle , Raleigh (NC), Age 22 |
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Alex Johnson, Denver (CO), Age 20 |
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Ian Chavis, Richmond (VA), Age 25 |
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Peter Grill, Boone (NC), Age 20 |
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Tim Rose, Elliotsburg (PA), Age 27 |
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Andy Cutler, Richmond (VA) Age 23 |
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Daniel Woods, Boulder (CO), Age 22 |
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Jimmy Webb, Chattanooga (TN), 24 |
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Paul Robinson, Moorestown (NJ), Age 24 |
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Andrew Palmer, Midlothian (VA), Age 24 |
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Michael O'Rourke, Boulder (CO), Age 17 |
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Matt Londrey, Richmond (VA), Age 21 |
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Taylor McNeil, Cary (NC), Age 21 |
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Vasya Vorotnikov, Newark (DE), Age 25 |
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Carlo Traversi, Boulder (CO), Age 23 |
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